Up First from NPR
Up First from NPR

From SPF to skin color, sunscreen’s effectiveness is complicated

September 6, 2026

AI Summary

5 min read

Sunscreen seems like the simplest thing in the world: slather it on and you’re protected. But when producer Justine Paradise of New Hampshire Public Radio dug into the science for the podcast Outside/In, she found something far more complicated. The United States has been stuck for more than twenty-five years without a new sunscreen ingredient, while Europe and Asia have had access to more advanced filters. The FDA finally approved a new chemical compound called bemotrizinol (BEMT) this year, but the story of why it took so long—and what SPF actually measures—reveals a product that is both more impressive and more imperfect than most people realize.

The High-Tech Chemistry Behind a Simple Lotion

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What you'll learn

  • 1 (00:01) **Episode Introduction & Guest Welcome** - Host Aisha Rasco introduces the Sunday story and guest Justine Paradise from New Hampshire Public Radio to discuss the complicated world of sunscreen.
  • 2 (04:44) **Origin Story of Modern Sunscreen** - The history of commercial sunscreen, from WWII-era Red Vet Pet to Coppertone, and how the product's purpose has shifted from tanning to protection.
  • 3 (06:01) **Breaking News: A New Sunscreen Ingredient** - The FDA has approved bemotrizinol (BEMT), the first new active sunscreen ingredient in the U.S. in over 25 years, marking a major shift.
  • 4 (08:34) **Why the U.S. Lags on Sunscreen Innovation** - The U.S. regulates sunscreen as an over-the-counter drug, creating an extremely high and slow approval bar compared to other countries that regulate it as a cosmetic.
  • 5 (11:14) **Segment Break: The Conversation on Skin Color and SPF** - The episode pivots to a second major theme: how sunscreen advice and SPF testing fail to account for different skin tones.
  • 6 (13:00) **The Imperfect Science of SPF** - An explanation of what SPF (Sun Protection Factor) actually means and why its testing is inconsistent and unreliable.
  • 7 (15:58) **The Real-World Limits of SPF** - The practical difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 is minimal, and no sunscreen lasts more than a couple of hours without reapplication.

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Show Notes

Sunscreen may seem simple: slather it on, stay protected. But the science is more complicated than the label suggests. Why is it so hard to stay safe in the sun?

On The Sunday Story, we dig into the surprisingly high-tech world of sunscreen and the questions swirling around it. Justine Paradis of New Hampshire Public Radio breaks down the new ingredients, dispels SPF myths, and points to updated guidance around sunscreen use and how it relates to skin color.

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