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How bodegas led to the Yemeni coffeehouse explosion

November 11, 2026

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5 min read

How bodegas led to the Yemeni coffeehouse explosion

Hakeem Suleimani showed up at NPR's studios carrying his own coffee in a travel mug. "I keep coffee with me more than I keep my phone with me," he said. "When I leave my house it's mug, keys, wallet. It's never phone, wallet, keys." He drinks six to eight cups a day, and when asked how he stays so relaxed on that much caffeine, he shrugged: "I think the caffeine just gives up."

Hakeem wasn't there to critique the office coffee. He was there to help Planet Money understand a phenomenon that has spread rapidly across the United States: Yemeni coffeehouses. In the past nine years, a couple hundred of them have opened nationwide, with chains like Kawa House and Haraz Coffee House expanding into multiple cities. Hakeem opened one of the first, Jaffa Cafe in Brooklyn, in 2019. The coffeehouses stay open late, sell fancy snacks like honeycomb pastry with cheese, and let customers sit for hours over a pot of coffee. They were designed as a "third space" for Muslim and Arab American families who wanted somewhere family-friendly that didn't revolve around alcohol. But they have also become popular near college campuses, playing the role that Starbucks once did.

The story of how this happened, however, begins not with coffee but with corner stores.

The bodega foundation

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What you'll learn

  • 1 (00:25) **The Rise of Yemeni Coffee Houses** - Hakeem Suleimani, founder of Jaffa Cafe, explains the explosion of Yemeni coffee houses across the US, which stay open late, serve fancy snacks, and offer a family-friendly "third space" for Muslim and Arab American communities.
  • 2 (03:46) **The Immigrant Business Cluster Phenomenon** - Hosts Amanda and Jeff frame the story as a new twist on immigrant groups specializing in one type of business, like Vietnamese nail salons, Gujarati motels, or Greek diners.
  • 3 (05:27) **The Bodega Foundation** - Hakeem's cafe in Brooklyn sits just three doors down from his father Tarek's deli, Jaffa Deli, which has been running since 1995, illustrating the family's entrepreneurial history.
  • 4 (10:03) **The Scale of Yemeni Bodegas** - Today, Yemeni Americans run nearly half of all bodegas in New York City (about 5,000) and thousands more across the US, despite making up just one-fortieth of 1% of the population.
  • 5 (11:13) **Why Immigrant Clusters Form** - Bill Kerr explains that clustering often starts for arbitrary reasons, like actress Tippi Hedren teaching manicures to Vietnamese refugees in the 1970s, which sparked the Vietnamese nail salon industry.
  • 6 (14:53) **The Economic Advantage of Clustering** - Kerr finds that immigrants in clustered industries earn higher incomes than those in non-clustered self-employment or wage work, despite often facing long hours and thin margins.
  • 7 (16:48) **The Generational Shift** - Back at the deli, Tarek demonstrates his signature coffee-making technique, but Hakeem represents a newer generation that wants specialty coffee, fancy syrups, and a less grueling job.

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Show Notes

There is a long-standing tradition of different immigrant groups arriving in the U.S. and specializing in one particular type of business. Think, nail salons run by people from Vietnam or Gujarati Indians owning motels and hotels.

Yemenis are another immigrant community that has largely clustered around one industry, in their case, bodegas and small grocery stores. There are thousands of these shops all over the country, despite Yemeni-Americans only making up around one-fortieth of one percent of the U.S. population, according to the last census. 

In the past 9 years, a new business success story has been built on top of that foundation: Yemeni coffee houses.

Today on the show, why some immigrant groups concentrate in a single industry, while others spread out to work in all sorts of jobs. And what it’s like for the next generation to try to expand on their parents’ success.

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Today’s episode of Planet Money was hosted by Amanda Aronczyk and Jeff Guo. It was produced by James Sneed, edited by Keith Romer, and fact-checked by Dania Suleman. Engineering by Cena Loffredo and Travis Hagen. Alex Goldmark is Planet Money’s executive producer.

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